Costume: the journal of The Costume Society

Notice of Intent to Digitize Back Issues of Costume

With the help of Maney Publishing, The Costume Society intends to scan and make available in electronic form the back issues of Costume. As a means of easy access to previously published papers, of which few subscribers will have copies, we expect this to be a considerable enhancement of the benefi ts of the institutional subscription. Many of you will be familiar with the current procedure in which authors assign copyright (for both print and electronic publication) to The Costume Society. This does not limit an author’s ability to reuse material, but ensures that Maney, on our behalf, can protect the copyright internationally. The papers we published previously, in our back issues, were not administered in this way, nor was permission sought to obtain electronic rights. Such a form of publishing was never conceived. It would exceed the resources available to The Costume Society to identify all the authors who have previously contributed to Costume and obtain their (or their Estate executor where an author is deceased) permission to republish their work electronically. In any case, we are very doubtful that the addresses that we had at the time of publication are still current. We are therefore writing this notice to ask for any authors who object to the proposed policy to let us know as soon as possible. We think it will be a pity, but if the permission, which we will be taking as given, is withdrawn, we will reluctantly omit their work from the scanned back archive. This will inevitably distort the record to a certain extent, but we will respect the decision. We expect this notice will be seen and read by most people involved in the activities of The Costume Society, and we would be grateful if you could draw it to the attention of all your colleagues. We will be proceeding with this scanning project in the next few months, and need to ensure that notice of our intentions is disseminated widely.

Costume is a dress studies journal published by the Costume Society since 1967. It is now edited by Penelope Byrde and Verity Wilson with Christine Stevens as Reviews Editor. The team’s complementary expertise and experience as curators, writers and lecturers ensure a wide network of contacts throughout the diverse world of dress and textile studies.

The journal is published annually by Maney Publishing (maney.co.uk) and we are pleased to announce that from 2012 there will be two issues a year  

43 | 42 | 41 | 40 | 39 | 38 | 37 | 36 | 35 | 34 | 33 | 32 | 31 | 30





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2009 COSTUME No 43
Penelope Byrde and Verity Wilson	Editorial
Philip A. Sykas	Fustians in Englishmen's Dress: From Cloth to Emblem
Eiluned Edwards	The Role of Veilcloths Among the Rabaris of Kutch, Gujarat, Western India
Bridget Clarke	Clothing the Family of an MP in the 1690s: An Analysis of the Day Book of Edward Clarke of Chipley, Somerset
Lee Clatworthy	The Quintessential Englishman? Henry Temple's Town and Country Dress
Miles Lambert	'Sent from Town': Commissioning Clothing in Britain During the Long Eighteenth Century
Susan North	Redfern Limited, 1892 to 1940
Julia Long	Portable Pets: Live and Apparently Live Animals in Fashion, 1880-1925
Anthea Jarvis	Reflections on the Development of the Study of Dress History and of Costume Curatorship: A Case Study of Anne Buck OBE
Carly Eck	Headlines Make Fashion: The Use of Newsprint Fabric and Newspaper Clippings in Fashion and Fancy Dress
Lynn Downey	Blue Denim by the Bay: The Levi Strauss & Co. Archives
James Snowden	New and Recent Books
Rebecca Arnold	Selective List of Articles from Periodicals
Obituary	Mairead Dunlevy

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2008 COSTUME No 42
Ann Saunders	Editorial
Anita Quye and Hugh Cheape	Rediscovering the Arisaid
Jane Malcolm-Davies, Caroline Johnson and Ninya Mikhaila	And her black satin gown must be new-bodied': The Twenty-First-Century Body in Pursuit of the Holbein Look
Johannes Pietsch	The Burial Clothes of Margaretha Franziska de Lobkowitz, 1617
Grace Evans	Marriage a la Mode, An Eighteenth-Century Wedding Dress, Hat and Shoes Set from the Olive Matthews Collection, Chertsey Museum
Dawn Chappell	Sir William Heathcote's Livery
Alexandra Kajdanska	Fashionable Life in Eighteenth-Century Gdansk: The Drawings of Daniel Chodowiecki (1726-1801)
Vesna Marija Potocic Matkovic, Ivo Soljacic and Zlatka Mencl Bajs	The History of the Dress Code at the University of Zagreb — From Jesuit Talars to Newly Designed Academic Gowns
Anna Marie Kirk	Japonisme and Femininity: A Study of Japanese Dress in British and French Art and Society, c. 1860-c. 1899
Samantha Vettese	The Ballets Russes Connection with Fashion
Susan North	John Redfern and Sons, 1847-1892
Elaine Webster	New Zealand School Uniforms in the Era of Democracy: 1965 to 1975
James Snowden and Rebecca Arnold	New Books and Articles
Obituary	Ella Bland

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2007 Costume No. 41
Ann Saunders	Editorial
Janet Arnold	The ‘pair of straight bodies’ and ‘a pair of drawers’ dating from 1603 which clothe the effigy of Queen Elizabeth I in Westminster Abbey.
Cliodna Devitt	‘To cap it all’: The Waterford Cap of Maintenance.
Jane A. Lawson	Rainbow for a Reign: The Colours of a Queen’s Wardrobe.
Nigel Sleigh-Johnson	The Merchant Taylors Company of London under Elizabeth I: Tailors’ Guild or Company of Merchants?.
Harriet Waterhouse	A Fashionable Confinement: Whaleboned Stays and the Pregnant Woman.
Lucy-Clare Windle	‘Over what crinoline should these charming jupons be worn?’: Thomson’s Survival Strategy During the Decline of the Crinoline.
Anthea Jarvis	The Dress Must be White and Perfectly Plain and Simple: Confirmation and First Communion Dress, 1850-2000.
Nigel Arch	The Wearing of the Red: The Redcoat and the British Brand.
Anna Baruma	‘A Clinging Liberty Tea-Gown Instead of a Magenta Satin’: The Colour Red in Artistic Dress by Liberty & Co.
Rebecca Arnold	Modern Fashions for Modern Women: The Evolution of New York Sportswear in the 1930s.
Rosemary Harden	Chained Melody or Putting Paco Rabanne in his Place.
James Snowden & Naomi A.E. Tarrant	New Books and Articles.
Obituaries	Barbara Allen.
Maureen Allen	Post-Traumatic Stress Disorder.

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2006 Costume No. 40
Ann Saunders	Editorial
Susan North	The Fusion of Fabric and Gem: The Costume Society Symposium 2005.
Robert Tittler	Nelson Remembered: Reproductions of Historical Naval Uniform.
Ann Susan Saunders	Provision of Apparel for the Poor in London 1630-80.
Edwina Ehrman	Dressing Well in Old Age: the Clothing Accounts of Martha Dodson, 1746-1765.
Heather Toomer	The de Saumarez Layette with a pattern by Elspeth Reed.
Deirdre Murphy	‘The Girls in Green’: Women’s Seaside Dress in England 1850-1900.
Valerie Cumming	First Knight: Henry Irving 1838-1905.
Beverly Lemire	Wool: Products and Markets from the 13th to 20th Century.
Judy Tregidden	The Fashion Gallery, Snibston Discovery Park, Leicestershire.
James Snowden & Naomi E.A. Tarrant	New Books and Articles

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2005 Costume No. 39
Ann Saunders	Editorial: 40 Years On
Madeleine Ginsburg	The Costume Society: The Early Days
Stella Mary Newton Edited by Jane Bridgeman	London Haute Couture in the 1930s
Anna Ritchie	Clothing among the Picts
Jenny Tiramani	The Sanders Portrait
Kay Staniland	Samuel Pepys and his Wardrobe
Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell	Mourning and La Mode at the Court of Louis XVI
Suzanne Adams	Purchasers from the Parsonage: Observations on Bath Dress and Reactive Shopping by the Penrose Family 1766-1767
Anne Mary Garry	‘After they went I worked’: Mrs Larpent and her Needlework, 1790-1780
Keren Protheroe	Quality Stitch by Stitch: Clothing and Associated Publications Held in the Marks & Spencer Company Archive
Ann Rudge	Travelling in Style
Sylvia Ayton	'A Love-Hate Relationship with Couture’

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2004 Costume No. 38
Naomi Tarrant	An outfit from the Berlin Carousel of 1750 at Paxton House, Bewickshire
	Cicero's new clothes: recreating and investigating dress and dress effects.
Elaine Webster
& Fiona Milne
Susan Mee	The clothing of Margaret Parnell and Millicent Crayforde, 1569 to 1575
Robert Smith	Runners and rituals in early Russia
Helen Persson	Straw - the blonde goddess: the adaptation of a folk tradition to fashion
Deirdre Murphy	'Stylish yet perfectly modest' : womens bathing dress in England, 1850 -1900
Kate Strasdin	'An easy day for a lady...': the dress of early women mountaineers
Lucy Johnston	She and ski: the development of women's ski outfits 1880- 1930
Catherine Horwood	'Anyone for Tennis?' male dress and decorum on the tennis courts of inter-war Britain
Anne Brogden	Paddy's market
Harry Matthews	The fashionable image: a celebration of the Harry Mathews Collection of prints and pocket books in the Museum of London
Alison Beazley	Twenty-first century 'made-to-measure'
Colin McDowell	The new art?

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2003 COSTUME No. 37
Maureen Alden	Ancient Greek dress
David Key	Whythe bendys a-bove hyr harnys: an investigation into the Bend as a part of fifteenth century military clothing
Susan Mee	The clothing of Margaret Parnell and Millicent Crayforde, 1569 to 1575
Nigel Sleigh-Johnsonh	Aspects of the tailoring trade in the City of London in the late sixteenth and earlier seventeenth centuries
Pat Poppy	Mary Ring: The clothing of an early American settler
Kay Staniland	Samuel Pepys and his wardrobe
Jenny Lister	Twenty-three samples of silks: silks worn by Queen Charlotte and the Princesses at Royal Birthday Balls 1791-1794
Gillian Lenfestey	An Alderney wedding, 1779
Anne Brogden	Clothing provision by Liverpool's other Poor Law Institutions: Kirkdale Industrial Schools
Jennifer Queree	Sails, seals and sailcloth: the clothing of the Dundonald castaways
Kevin L Seligman	Dressmakers patterns: the English commercial paper pattern industry, 1878-1950

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2002 COSTUME No. 36
Maria Hayward	The Sign of Some Degree?: the financial, social and sartorial, significance of male headwear at the courts of Henry VIII and Edward VI
Lisa Jefferson	Gifts given and fees paid to Garter King of Arms at installation ceremonies of the Order of the Garter in the sixteenth century
Ian Chipperfield	Timothy Fellows's roquelaure
Ann Susan Saunders	A Bedlam gown
Anne Brogden	Clothing provision in the Liverpool Warehouse
Myrtle Campbell	Embroidered Bodices: an East Indian connection?
Leigh Summers	Yes They Did Wear Them: working class women and corsetry in the nineteenth century
Aagot Noss	Norwegian folk-dress as seen by the artists
Penelope Woolfitt	Cutting the exotic: a study of some Asian trousers
Tim Dawson	A tunic from Eastern Anatolia
Jane Malcolm-Davies	And at the Plastron Push: the historical development of fencing kit
Verity Wilson	Western modes and Asian clothing: reflections on borrowing other people's dress

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2001 Costume No. 35
Kimberly Chrisman	The New Dresses: A Look at How Mantuamaking Became Established in Scotland
Judith Milhous & R. T. C. Hume	The Tailor's Shop at the Pantheon Opera 1790-1792
Cally Blackman	Walking Amazons: The Development of the Riding Habit in England during the Eighteenth Century
Kenneth Cliff	Mr Lock, Hatter to the Ladies 1783-1805
Maureen Dillon	Like a Glow worm who had lost its Glow: The Invention of the Incandescent Electric Lamp and the Development of Artificial Silk and Electric Jewellery
Rosie Howard	The Uniform of the Boys of Christ's Hospital
Gavin Waddell	The Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers: Its Impact on Post War British Fashion

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2000 Costume No. 34
Janet Arnold	Janet Arnold: list of publications
Janet Arnold	Serpents and flowers: embroidery designs from Thomas Trevelyon’s Miscellanies of 1608 and 1616
Santina M Levey	References to dress in the earliest account book of Bess of Hardwick
Anne Buck	Clothing and textiles in Bedfordshire inventories, 1617-1620
Karen Hearn	A fatal fertility? Elizabethan and Jacobean pregnancy portraits
Joanna Marschne	Mary II: her clothes and textiles
Deborah E Kraak	Variations on “plainness”: Quaker dress in eighteenth century Philadelphia
Penelope Byrde & Ann Saunders	The “Waterloo Ball” dresses at the Museum of Costume, Bath
Kay Staniland	Princess Charlotte’s wedding dress
Geoffrey Squire	E. W. Godwin and the House of Liberty
Elizabeth Ann Coleman	Myrbor and other mysteries: questions of art, authorship and émigrées
Zillah Halls	Mrs. Exeter – the rise and fall of the older woman
	Conversation at Castle Howard: Miss Annie Wilkinson interviewed by Miss Cecile Hummel during the Costume Society’s visit to Castle Howard on 7 September 1968,transcribed by Janet Arnold
Jenny Tiramani	Janet Arnold and the Globe wardrobe: handmade clothes for Shakespeare’s actors
Jackie Marshall	Ward Mode and movement: text of a talk given at the Janet Arnold Memorial Day held at the Victoria and Albert Museum, 24 April 1999
Janine Odlevak	The tailoring archive at London College of Fashion

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1999 Costume No. 33
Anthea Jarvis	An agreeable change from ordinary medical diagnosis: the costume collection of Drs. C. Willett and Phillis Cunnington
Naomi E. A.Tarrant	The real thing: the study of original garments in Britain since 1947
Beverley Lemire	'In the hands of work women': English markets, cheap clothing and female labour 1650 - 1800
Rozemarijn Hoekstra	Images of dress in the golden age of Dutch painting
Patricia Allerston	Reconstructing the second - hand clothes trade in sixteenth and seventeenth century Venice
Philip Sykas	Calico catalogues: nineteenth century printed dress fabrics from pattern books
Maureen Alden	The beguilement of Zeus - in all the better shops
Jane E. Huggett	Rural costume in Elizabethan Essex: a study based on the evidence from wills
Flora Johnston	Jonet Gothskirk and the 'gown of repentance'
David Wilcox	Cut and construction of a late eighteenth - century coat
Kenneth Cliff	Mr. Lock, hatter to Admiral Lord Nelson
Hugh Stanley	Astle Wallis, The Queen's jester: a nineteenth - century entertainer
Ann Hardie	A letter from Ellen Terry
Shelley Tobin	Paulise de Bush; the story of a collection
Lorraine Williams & Helene Alexander	Fans: a selective bibliography

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1998 Costume No. 32
Francina Irwin	'Drawn mostly from nature': David Allan's record of daily dress in France and Italy, 1770-76
Lynn Sorge	Eighteenth century stays: their origins and creators
Alice Mackrell	Dress in Le Style Troubadour
Kimberley Chrisman	Rose Bertin in London?
Rachel Worth	Elizabeth Gaskell, clothes and class identity
Janet Maynard	Respectability in dress in the novels of Hesba Stretton
Rosalind K Marshall	From teagowns to topees: the costume of Lady Flora Poore
Anne Buck	John Ruskin and dress, 1882
Ann Wise	Dressmakers in Worthing, 1920-1950
Transcribed by Debbie Henderson	A Hat-maker remembers: a conversation with John Reed-Crawford
Avril Lansdell	A presentation at Masque IV, the Costume Guild weekend, 1996
Aileen Riberio	Further list of titles of postgraduate reports written by the students of the History of Dress Department at the Courtauld Institute of Art, from 1984 to 1997
Heather Meiklejohn	Dress in history: studies and approaches

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1997 Costume No. 31
Francoise Piponnier	Purchases, gifts and legacies of liturgical vestments from written sources in the 14th and 15th centuries
Maria Hayward	The packing and transportation of the possessions of Henry VIII Patricia Wardle - 'Divers necessaries for his Majesty's use and service': seamstresses to the Stuart Kings
Joanna Marschner	Queen Caroline of Ansbach: attitudes to clothes and cleanliness
Elizabeth C. Sanderson	Nearly new: The second-hand clothing trade in Eighteenth century Edinburgh
Sacha Llewellyn	Inventory of Her Grace's Things 1747 - The dress inventory of Mary Churchill, 2nd Duchess of Montague
Pamela A. Parmal	Fashion and the growing importance of the Marchand des Modes
Joy Spanabel Emery	Development of the American commercial pattern industry: the first generation 1850-1880
Anthea Jarvis	British cotton couture: British fashion and the Cotton Board 1941-69
Pat Poppy	Fancy dress? costume for re-enactment
Caroline Evans	Street style

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1996 Costume No.30
Donald King	Roman and Byzantine Dress in Egypt
Norah Lambourne	Designing for the York Cycle of Mystery Plays in 1951, 54 & 57
Maria Hayward	Luxury or Magnificence? Dress at the Court of Henry VIII
Janet Arnold & Mary Westerman	Bulgarella, An Innovative Method of Mounting the 16th Century Doublet & Trunk Hose worn by Don Garzia de Medici
June Swann	Shoes Concealed in Buildings
Clare Rose	A Group of Embroidered 18th century Bedgowns
Aileen Riberio	In Search of Carlyle's Hat
Linda M. Ballard	Cashmere Carrying Cloaks
Stephen Bucker	Houses Built of Straw; The Influence of the Hat Trade in the Shaping of Luton
Marian Nichols	Straw Plaiting and the Straw Hat Industry in Britain
Jill Draper	The Development of the Luton Museum Lace Collection