Costume: The journal of The Costume Society
The new editorial team for the Society’s journal will be Penelope Byrde Ruddock and Verity Wilson as joint editors, Naomi Tarrant as reviews editor with Ann Saunders as Editor Emeritus. The handover will take place over the next few months, ahead of the publication of the 2008 edition which is the last upon which Ann and Maria Hayward will have worked together. I know that you will join me in welcoming such a talented team. Their complementary expertise and experience as curators, writers and lecturers ensure a wide network of contacts throughout the diverse world of dress and textile studies.
Valerie Cumming
Chairman
If you are inspired by the articles in Costume then why not submit a paper.
Editions of Costume with list of titles
41 | 40 | 39 | 38 | 37 | 36 | 35 | 34 | 33 | 32 | 31 | 30
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Ann Saunders
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Editorial
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Janet Arnold
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The ‘pair of straight bodies’ and ‘a pair of drawers’ dating from 1603 which clothe the effigy of Queen Elizabeth I in Westminster Abbey.
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Cliodna Devitt
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‘To cap it all’: The Waterford Cap of Maintenance.
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Jane A. Lawson
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Rainbow for a Reign: The Colours of a Queen’s Wardrobe.
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Nigel Sleigh-Johnson
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The Merchant Taylors Company of London under Elizabeth I: Tailors’ Guild or Company of Merchants?.
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Harriet Waterhouse
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A Fashionable Confinement: Whaleboned Stays and the Pregnant Woman.
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Lucy-Clare Windle
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‘Over what crinoline should these charming jupons be worn?’: Thomson’s Survival Strategy During the Decline of the Crinoline.
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Anthea Jarvis
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The Dress Must be White and Perfectly Plain and Simple: Confirmation and First Communion Dress, 1850-2000.
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Nigel Arch
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The Wearing of the Red: The Redcoat and the British Brand.
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Anna Baruma
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‘A Clinging Liberty Tea-Gown Instead of a Magenta Satin’: The Colour Red in Artistic Dress by Liberty & Co.
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Rebecca Arnold
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Modern Fashions for Modern Women: The Evolution of New York Sportswear in the 1930s.
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Rosemary Harden
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Chained Melody or Putting Paco Rabanne in his Place.
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James Snowden &
Naomi A.E. Tarrant
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New Books and Articles.
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Obituaries
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Barbara Allen.
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Maureen Allen
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Post-Traumatic Stress Disorder.
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Ann Saunders
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Editorial
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Susan North
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The Fusion of Fabric and Gem: The Costume Society Symposium 2005.
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Robert Tittler
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Nelson Remembered: Reproductions of Historical Naval Uniform.
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Ann Susan Saunders
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Provision of Apparel for the Poor in London 1630-80.
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Edwina Ehrman
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Dressing Well in Old Age: the Clothing Accounts of Martha Dodson, 1746-1765.
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Heather Toomer
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The de Saumarez Layette with a pattern by Elspeth Reed.
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Deirdre Murphy
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‘The Girls in Green’: Women’s Seaside Dress in England 1850-1900.
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Valerie Cumming
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First Knight: Henry Irving 1838-1905.
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Beverly Lemire
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Wool: Products and Markets from the 13th to 20th Century.
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Judy Tregidden
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The Fashion Gallery, Snibston Discovery Park, Leicestershire.
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James Snowden &
Naomi E.A. Tarrant
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New Books and Articles
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Ann Saunders
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Editorial: 40 Years On
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Madeleine Ginsburg
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The Costume Society: The Early Days
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Stella Mary Newton
Edited by Jane
Bridgeman
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London Haute Couture in the 1930s
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Anna Ritchie
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Clothing among the Picts
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Jenny Tiramani
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The Sanders Portrait
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Kay Staniland
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Samuel Pepys and his Wardrobe
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Kimberly
Chrisman-Campbell
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Mourning and La Mode at the Court of Louis XVI
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Suzanne Adams
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Purchasers from the Parsonage: Observations on Bath Dress and Reactive Shopping by the Penrose Family 1766-1767
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Anne Mary Garry
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‘After they went I worked’: Mrs Larpent and her Needlework, 1790-1780
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Keren Protheroe
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Quality Stitch by Stitch: Clothing and Associated Publications Held in the Marks & Spencer Company Archive
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Ann Rudge
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Travelling in Style
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Sylvia Ayton
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'A Love-Hate Relationship with Couture’
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Naomi Tarrant
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An outfit from the Berlin Carousel of 1750 at Paxton House, Bewickshire
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Elaine Webster
& Fiona Milne
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Cicero's new clothes: recreating and investigating dress and dress effects.
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Susan Mee
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The clothing of Margaret Parnell and Millicent Crayforde, 1569 to 1575
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Robert Smith
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Runners and rituals in early Russia
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Helen Persson
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Straw - the blonde goddess: the adaptation of a folk tradition to fashion
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Deirdre Murphy
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'Stylish yet perfectly modest' : womens bathing dress in England, 1850 -1900
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Kate Strasdin
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'An easy day for a lady...': the dress of early women mountaineers
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Lucy Johnston
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She and ski: the development of women's ski outfits 1880- 1930
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Catherine Horwood
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'Anyone for Tennis?' male dress and decorum on the tennis courts of inter-war Britain
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Anne Brogden
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Paddy's market
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Harry Matthews
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The fashionable image: a celebration of the Harry Mathews Collection of prints and pocket books in the Museum of London
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Alison Beazley
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Twenty-first century 'made-to-measure'
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Colin McDowell
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The new art?
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Maureen Alden
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Ancient Greek dress
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David Key
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Whythe bendys a-bove hyr harnys: an investigation into the Bend as a part of fifteenth century military clothing
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Susan Mee
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The clothing of Margaret Parnell and Millicent Crayforde, 1569 to 1575
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Nigel Sleigh-Johnsonh
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Aspects of the tailoring trade in the City of London in the late sixteenth and earlier seventeenth centuries
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Pat Poppy
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Mary Ring: The clothing of an early American settler
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Kay Staniland
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Samuel Pepys and his wardrobe
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Jenny Lister
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Twenty-three samples of silks: silks worn by Queen Charlotte and the Princesses at Royal Birthday Balls 1791-1794
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Gillian Lenfestey
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An Alderney wedding, 1779
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Anne Brogden
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Clothing provision by Liverpool's other Poor Law Institutions: Kirkdale Industrial Schools
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Jennifer Queree
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Sails, seals and sailcloth: the clothing of the Dundonald castaways
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Kevin L Seligman
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Dressmakers patterns: the English commercial paper pattern industry, 1878-1950
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Maria Hayward
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The Sign of Some Degree?: the financial, social and sartorial, significance of male headwear at the courts of Henry VIII and Edward VI
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Lisa Jefferson
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Gifts given and fees paid to Garter King of Arms at installation ceremonies of the Order of the Garter in the sixteenth century
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Ian Chipperfield
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Timothy Fellows's roquelaure
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Ann Susan Saunders
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A Bedlam gown
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Anne Brogden
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Clothing provision in the Liverpool Warehouse
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Myrtle Campbell
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Embroidered Bodices: an East Indian connection?
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Leigh Summers
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Yes They Did Wear Them: working class women and corsetry in the nineteenth century
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Aagot Noss
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Norwegian folk-dress as seen by the artists
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Penelope Woolfitt
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Cutting the exotic: a study of some Asian trousers
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Tim Dawson
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A tunic from Eastern Anatolia
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Jane Malcolm-Davies
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And at the Plastron Push: the historical development of fencing kit
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Verity Wilson
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Western modes and Asian clothing: reflections on borrowing other people's dress
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Kimberly Chrisman
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The New Dresses: A Look at How Mantuamaking Became Established in Scotland
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Judith Milhous & R. T. C. Hume
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The Tailor's Shop at the Pantheon Opera 1790-1792
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Cally Blackman
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Walking Amazons: The Development of the Riding Habit in England during the Eighteenth Century
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Kenneth Cliff
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Mr Lock, Hatter to the Ladies 1783-1805
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Maureen Dillon
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Like a Glow worm who had lost its Glow: The Invention of the Incandescent Electric Lamp and the Development of Artificial Silk and Electric Jewellery
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Rosie Howard
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The Uniform of the Boys of Christ's Hospital
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Gavin Waddell
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The Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers: Its Impact on Post War British Fashion
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COSTUME issues 30 - 34 - [back to the top]
Costume No 34 2000
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Sir Roy Strong - Janet Arnold: an appreciation
Janet Arnold - Janet Arnold: list of publications
Janet Arnold - Serpents and flowers: embroidery designs from Thomas Trevelyon’s Miscellanies of 1608 and 1616
Santina M Levey - References to dress in the earliest account book of Bess of Hardwick
Anne Buck - Clothing and textiles in Bedfordshire inventories, 1617-1620
Karen Hearn - A fatal fertility? Elizabethan and Jacobean pregnancy portraits
Joanna Marschne - Mary II: her clothes and textiles
Deborah E Kraak - Variations on “plainness”: Quaker dress in eighteenth century Philadelphia
Penelope Byrde & Ann Saunders - The “Waterloo Ball” dresses at the Museum of Costume, Bath
Kay Staniland - Princess Charlotte’s wedding dress
Geoffrey Squire - E. W. Godwin and the House of Liberty
Elizabeth Ann Coleman - Myrbor and other mysteries: questions of art, authorship and émigrées
Zillah Halls - Mrs. Exeter – the rise and fall of the older woman
Conversation at Castle Howard: Miss Annie Wilkinson interviewed by Miss Cecile Hummel during the Costume Society’s visit to Castle Howard on 7 September 1968, transcribed by Janet Arnold
Jenny Tiramani - Janet Arnold and the Globe wardrobe: handmade clothes for Shakespeare’s actors
Jackie Marshall - Ward Mode and movement: text of a talk given at the Janet Arnold Memorial Day held at the Victoria and Albert Museum, 24 April 1999
Janine Odlevak - The tailoring archive at London College of Fashion
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Costume No 33 1999
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Anthea Jarvis - An agreeable change from ordinary medical diagnosis: the costume collection of Drs. C. Willett and Phillis Cunnington
Naomi E. A.Tarrant - The real thing: the study of original garments in Britain since 1947
Beverley Lemire - 'In the hands of work women': English markets, cheap clothing and female labour 1650 - 1800
Rozemarijn Hoekstra - Images of dress in the golden age of Dutch painting
Patricia Allerston - Reconstructing the second-hand clothes trade in sixteenth and seventeenth century Venice
Philip Sykas - Calico catalogues: nineteenth century printed dress fabrics from pattern books
Maureen Alden, The beguilement of Zeus - in all the better shops
Jane E. Huggett- Rural costume in Elizabethan Essex: a study based on the evidence from wills
Flora Johnston - Jonet Gothskirk and the 'gown of repentance'
David Wilcox - Cut and construction of a late eighteenth-century coat
Kenneth Cliff - Mr. Lock, hatter to Admiral Lord Nelson
Hugh Stanley - Astle Wallis, The Queen's jester: a nineteenth-century entertainer
Ann Hardie - A letter from Ellen Terry
Shelley Tobin - Paulise de Bush; the story of a collection
Lorraine Williams and
Helene Alexander - Fans: a selective bibliography
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Costume No 32 1998
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Francina Irwin - 'Drawn mostly from nature': David Allan's record of daily dress in France and Italy, 1770-76
Lynn Sorge - Eighteenth century stays: their origins and creators
Alice Mackrell - Dress in Le Style Troubadour
Kimberley Chrisman - Rose Bertin in London?
Rachel Worth - Elizabeth Gaskell, clothes and class identity
Janet Maynard - Respectability in dress in the novels of Hesba Stretton
Rosalind K Marshall - From teagowns to topees: the costume of Lady Flora Poore
Anne Buck - John Ruskin and dress, 1882
Ann Wise - Dressmakers in Worthing, 1920-1950
A Hat-maker remembers: a conversation with John Reed-Crawford, transcribed by Debbie Henderson
Avril Lansdell - A presentation at Masque IV, the Costume Guild weekend, 1996
Aileen Riberio - Further list of titles of postgraduate reports written by the students of the History of Dress Department at the Courtauld Institute of Art, from 1984 to 1997
Heather Meiklejohn - Dress in history: studies and approaches
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Costume No 31 1997
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This volume is now out of print.
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Francoise Piponnier - Purchases, gifts and legacies of liturgical vestments from written sources in the 14th and 15th centuries
Maria Hayward, The packing and transportation of the possessions of Henry VIII
Patricia Wardle - 'Divers necessaries for his Majesty's use and service': seamstresses to the Stuart Kings
Joanna Marschner - Queen Caroline of Ansbach: attitudes to clothes and cleanliness
Elizabeth C. Sanderson - Nearly new: The second-hand clothing trade in Eighteenth century Edinburgh
Sacha Llewellyn - Inventory of Her Grace's Things 1747 - The dress inventory of Mary Churchill, 2nd Duchess of Montague
Pamela A. Parmal - Fashion and the growing importance of the Marchand des Modes
Joy Spanabel Emery - Development of the American commercial pattern industry: the first generation 1850-1880
Anthea Jarvis - British cotton couture: British fashion and the Cotton Board 1941-69
Pat Poppy - Fancy dress? costume for re-enactment
Caroline Evans - Street style
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Costume No.30 1996
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Donald King - Roman and Byzantine Dress in Egypt
Norah Lambourne - Designing for the York Cycle of Mystery Plays in 1951, 54 & 57
Maria Hayward - Luxury or Magnificence? Dress at the Court of Henry VIII
Janet Arnold & Mary Westerman - Bulgarella, An Innovative Method of Mounting the 16th Century Doublet & Trunk Hose worn by Don Garzia de Medici
June Swann - Shoes Concealed in Buildings
Clare Rose - A Group of Embroidered 18th century Bedgowns
Aileen Riberio - In Search of Carlyle's Hat
Linda M. Ballard - Cashmere Carrying Cloaks
Stephen Bucker - Houses Built of Straw; The Influence of the Hat Trade in the Shaping of Luton
Marian Nichols - Straw Plaiting and the Straw Hat Industry in Britain
Jill Draper - The Development of the Luton Museum Lace Collection
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Issues of Costume are available online from Ingentaconnect
Notes to contributors
Costume No. 41 - 2007
Costume No. 40 - 2006
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